Autumn Recipes from the Blue Ball:
"Roast" Pheasant
The most common gripe I hear about pheasant is “it’s too dry!” Of course, you can blame the bird or you can accept the simple truth… you have overcooked it. It’s an easy thing to do. Pheasants don’t yield as much meat as chickens but they’re a fairly decent size so there is always a temptation to roast the poor things to death! This recipe calls for the removal of the breasts from the carcass (the bones we use for the sauce, the leg meat can be reserved for later use in a curry) and will be pan roasted and ready in nine minutes. Yes, nine minutes!
If you are plucking pheasant yourself do make the effort to keep the skin on – it traps fat between it and the flesh which helps keep the meat moist during cooking and adds flavour. And please take the time to singe the bird with a blowtorch or over a naked gas flame to remove any rogue quills or bits of fluff.
Any kind of stewed fruit does much to liven up a game bird and aid with digestion but, to add a twist to the bog standard garnish, we serve pheasant with a long-forgotten 1970’s dinner party classic “devils on horseback” using the finest semi-dried Agen prunes (please don’t use the terrible tinned ones!) soaked in Armagnac and wrapped with smoked bacon. Game chips, bread sauce and a gravy made from the goodness of the bird add the finishing touches. Any kind of leafy green vegetable would make an ideal accompaniment.
Two people:
2 young pheasant
Devils on horseback
6 Agen prunes – soaked in one shot of armagnac or brandy overnight
6 whole almonds
6 rashers of pancetta or smoked streaky bacon
Make sure the stones have been removed from the prunes. Stuff an almond into the cavity then wrap with bacon. Secure with a cocktail stick and set aside.
These can be made well in advance and chilled until needed.
Bread Sauce
2 slices of white bread – crusts removed and torn into small pieces
½ onion studdes with 2 cloves
½ pint double cream
Salt and pepper
A knob of butter
Bring the cream to a gentle simmer with the onion the remove from the heat and infuse for 30 minutes. Remove the onion, add the bread and cook to a smooth, thick sauce. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
This can be made well in advance and warmed as you need it.
Game Chips
1 large Maris Piper potato – cut wafer thin, preferably on a mandolin, but please be careful!
Deep fry the potato chips at 140 degrees until cooked but not colored. Drain and cool. Crank the fryer up to 180 and cook the chips until golden. Drain and sprinkle lightly with salt.
These can be made well in advance and stored in an airtight container.
Gravy
1 sprig thyme
1 sprig rosemary
1 clove of garlic
1 pint of red wine
1 pint of good quality chicken stock
A splash of port
1 tspn tomato puree
Pheasant bones (see below)
Remove the breasts and legs from the pheasant. Better still; get your butcher working for his money! Roughly chop the carcasses and place in a saucean with a splash of vegetable oil. Cook until deep golden then add the other ingredients, bring to the boil, skim off any impurities then reduce the heat and simmer for 1 hour. Strain then return to the pan and reduce by half. Set aside.
This can be made the day before and chilled until needed.
For the pheasant
Place a sauté pan over a medium heat then add a drizzle of oil and a knob of butter. Season the breasts on both sides with salt and pepper and when the butter is sizzling add to the pan, skin side down. Cook gently for five minutes. Carefully flip over, add the “devils” (which need to be turned from time to time), and cook for a further four minutes. Remove to a plate and rest in a warm place while you reheat the bread sauce, gravy, and vegetables. Arrange on a serving plate and enjoy.
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